February 3, 2009

Knitted Owl Pattern!


Well folks, I finally heard back from Knitty, where I submitted my pattern for this knitted owl. I did not make it into their Spring issue :( but that means now I can post the pattern here with some pictures! It's kind of a long pattern, but that's because I'm long-winded and not yet very efficient at writing patterns, so don't be discouraged.


Asma Owl
by Egret Effects

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Height: 6 inches
Width: 4.5 inches (not including wings)
Body Circumference: 13.25 inches

MATERIALS
[MC] Main Color: TLC Heathers [100% Acrylic; 260 yd per 140g skein]; Color 2443: Nutmeg; 1 skein
[CC1] Contrast Color 1: Bernat Satin [100% Acrylic; 166 yd per 100g skein]; Color 4040: Ebony; 1 skein
[CC2] Contrast Color 2: Bernat Satin [100% Acrylic; 166 yd per 100g skein]; Color 3005: White; 1 skein (I used a Monique yarn, which came from a shop that’s now closed, but this will work equally well)
[CC3] Contrast Color 3: Lion Brand Homespun [98% Acrylic/2% Polyester; 185 yd per 170g skein]; Color 311: Rococo; 1 skein
[CC4] Contrast Color 4: Bernat Satin [100% Acrylic; 166 yd per 100g skein]; Color 4011: Sable; 1 skein
[CC5] Contrast Color 5: Lion Brand Wool [100% Wool; 158 yd per 85g skein]; Color 820-133: Pumpkin; 1 skein (I used a scrap piece of worsted weight wool that a friend gave me without the label; the Lion Brand color will come out a little darker, or you can substitute another worsted weight wool if you like the brightness)

1 set US #6 double-point needles
1 set US #6 straight needles
1 yarn needle
Fiberfill
Two safety pins

GAUGE
19 sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, but it doesn’t really matter.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern is really pretty easy. The eyes are the hardest part, but if you concentrate on keeping your needles and strands of yarn organized, you’ll be fine! I would suggest using boots or rubber bands for the double-pointed needles when you begin knitting in the round for the eyes so the needles don’t slip out of the stitches – and color-code them to help keep track of where each needle belongs. Finishing is easy in this pattern because you’ll do a little at a time for each part, so it comes together quick! You’ll notice that the yarns are of different weights but you will always use the same size needles, so don’t be surprised that some yarns are tighter to knit with and produce thicker pieces.

PATTERN
BODY/HEAD
Using two of the double-pointed needles and [MC], CO 10 sts.
Work in stockinette stitch for 8 rows, ending on a WS row.
CO an additional 28 sts to the front of the 9th row and knit that row.
Redistribute the stitches on three double-pointed needles, marking the beginning of the round.
Rnd 1: Knit (38 sts)
Rnd 2: K2, kfb, k2, kfb, k16, kfb, k2, kfb, k12 (42 sts)
Rnds 3-4: Knit
Rnd 5: K3, kfb, k2, kfb, k18, kfb, k2, kfb, k13 (46 sts)
Rnds 6-10: Knit
Rnd 11: K4, kfb, k1, kfb, k22, kfb, k1, kfb, k14 (50 sts)
Rnds 12-16: Knit
Rnd 17: K4, ssk, k1, k2tog, k22, ssk, k1, k2tog, k14 (46 sts)
Rnds 18-24: Knit
Rnd 25: K3, ssk, k2, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2, k2tog, k13 (42 sts)
Rnd 26: K2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2, k2tog, k12 (38 sts)
Rnd 27: Knit
Rnd 28: K2, kfb, k2, kfb, k16, kfb, k2, kfb, k12 (42 sts)
Rnd 29: Knit
Rnd 30: K3, kfb, k2, kfb, k18, kfb, k2, kfb, k13 (46 sts)
Rnd 31: Knit
Rnd 32: K4, kfb, k1, kfb, k22, kfb, k1, kfb, k14 (50 sts)
Rnds 33-39: Knit
Rnd 40: K4, ssk, k1, k2tog, k22, ssk, k1, k2tog, k14 (46 sts)
Rnds 41-45: Knit
Rnd 46: K3, ssk, k2, k2tog, k18, ssk, k2, k2tog, k13 (42 sts)
Rnd 47: Knit
Rnd 48: K2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2, k2tog, k12 (38 sts)
Rnd 49: K3, ssk, k18, k2tog, k13 (36 sts)
Rnd 50: *Ssk, k4, ssk, k3, **transfer last st worked to left needle and pass the second st on the left needle over; return transferred st back to right needle,** k5, repeat from ** to ** once more and then repeat entire sequence from * (28 sts)
Redistribute sts onto two of the double-pointed needles; 14 sts on the front side, and 14 sts on the backside.
Break yarn and use kitchener st to sew across top. Weave in end.
Use a scrap of [MC] at each corner of the seem to make the “ears.” Thread the scrap through just one strand, tie in a square knot, weave in one end, and trim the other to about 1/2 inch. Pull apart each ply to make a feathery look.

* The front of the owl is the side without the flap at the bottom.

EYES (make 2)
Using two of the double-pointed needles and [CC1], CO 3 sts.
Work I-cord for 3 rows.
Break yarn and join with [CC2].
Redistribute sts on three double-pointed needles (1 st on each needle).
Rnd 1: Knit
Rnd 2: Kfb all sts (6 sts)
Rnd 3: Knit
Rnd 4: Kfb all sts (12 sts)
Rnd 5: Knit
Rnd 6: Kfb all sts (24 sts)
Rnd 7: Knit
Rnd 8: Kfb across the first two needles, then BO the third needle, transferring the last stitch worked back to the left needle
Rnd 9: Knit across the two remaining needles, turn and BO all sts using very loose P sts
Bring all ends to the back side of the eyes and secure by tying together (as you pull the CO strand through it will bunch the I-cord, making a nice little ball for the pupil). Weave in ends.
Using [CC2], sew the eyes onto the head just around the pupils. You should position them with the short sides together and the ridges opposite each other. Lay them quite close together so that the ridges sort of overlap the other eye because they will spread apart after the owl is stuffed. Weave in ends.

WINGS
Outer wing (make 2)
Using straight needles and [MC], CO 4 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, kfb, kfb, k1 (6 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: Knit
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 (4 sts)
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: K1, ssk, k1 (3 sts)
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: Ssk, k1 (2 sts)
Break yarn; weave end through sts and into WS of piece.

Inner wing (make 2)
Using straight needles and [CC3], CO 4 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, ssk, k1 (3 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Ssk, k1 (2 sts)
Break yarn; weave end through sts and into WS of piece. Lay the inner wings inside the outer wings with WS facing each other and sew together using [MC]. The inner wings won’t be as long as the outer wings, so line them up near the tips, not the base.
Using [MC], sew one wing onto the body just below the narrowest part of the neck. Follow a row of knitting around to the other side and sew on the other wing. Weave in all ends.

BELLY
Using straight needles and [CC3], CO 10 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: K2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2 (8 sts)
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K2, ssk, k2tog, k2 (6 sts)
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 (4 sts)
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: Ssk, k2tog (2 sts)
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: Ssk (1 st)
Break yarn; weave end through the st and then into WS of piece. With RS visible, sew the belly onto the body a few rows above the very bottom. Weave in ends.

TAIL/BEAK
Using straight needles, the tail is made with [MC], and the beak is a double strand made from [CC4] and [CC5].
CO 6 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1 (4 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: K1, ssk, k1 (3 sts)
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Ssk, k1 (2 sts)
Break yarn; weave end through sts and into WS of piece. Using [MC], sew the tail onto the back of the body. Using the double strand, sew the beak onto the face just below the eyes and in a slightly curved shape so it's kind of a semi-cone. Weave in ends.

FEET (make 2)
Using straight needles and a double strand made from [CC4] and [CC5], CO 2 sts.
Row 1: Kfb both sts (4 sts)
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Kfb all sts (8 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: BO
Set aside until you’ve stuffed and closed the bottom of the owl.

FINISHING
When stuffing, make sure you get enough fiberfill into Asma’s body so it’s slightly wider than her head.
Use safety pins to attach the corners of the bottom flap to points in the opening across so that the flap will be sewn straight (there is more opening area than flap area). Using a strand of [MC], stitch the bottom flap along the opening. The flat flap should serve to keep Asma upright. Remove the pins and weave in the ends.
Using a strand of [MC], sew smaller ends of feet onto the body where they'll stick out straight – just below and on either side of the bottom of the belly. Weave in ends.

Yay!

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

i have aquestion, what made you name it asma owl? just curious.

Theresa B said...

The name Asma came from a woman I used to work with and I just thought it was a nice name.

TStone said...

Love it! Completely adorable.

Sara in WI said...

What an adorable owl! Thanks for sharing!

sasass said...

I just started knitting this, why is the body started in stockinette stitch but then after those 8 rows it's just knit stitches? When I look at the owl it clearly appears that it should be in stockinette the whole time because he has V's on the outside.

Theresa B said...

Good question... it's all stockinette but when you start you're knitting a flat flap that will become the bottom - at row eight you are beginning to work in the round so you only need to work knit stitches. Hope that clarifies!

Anonymous said...

Thank you for being "long winded".
Beginners get discouraged if patterns are not clear.
You are very creative. This is a pattern I can do with my grandchildren. Anne

Anonymous said...

hi I am from Australia and just starting to learn how to knit so this could be a stupid question don't think the wool mentioned in the pattern are sold here so how would I convert pattern for Australian wool, is this wool used for that pattern a 4 ply or 8ply..would it just be finding a wool with the same ply and composition ie 59%acrlic 50%wool

thanking you for your reponse

Theresa B said...

The nice thing about plush toys is that the yarn doesn't really matter - especially when it comes to thinkness. That said, I would use any worsted weight yarn. Material depends on whether the toy will be played with (use something durable and washable) or displayed as decor (use something pretty!).